The tops are the ends where you drilled the holes. Using this solves the space problem, and is a whole lot cheaper and lighter to boot! These are the easiest as they use just two different pipe diameters and are in the easy medium range. Now mostly in North America, the black ABS is standard for 3inch pipe BUT you can get a thinner wall white PVC. The cut outs at the bottom COULD be done with the mill also, but there’s a faster way which also creates hard 90 degree shoulders rather than the rounded ones milling would leave. Sometimes it can be just a bit of a click sound on the initial impact of the note – caused by the inside of the hole striking the hard surface of the cord – but still undesireable. The Home depot stores I looked at had the fittings for the PVC pipe… but not the pipe!! It took me about a week to get the resonators done even using paint which could be recoated within the first hour of drying. Here we see the finished instrument! It is a matter of positioning the bars where they need to be, then finding the best “average line” for the diagonal strut so that it lies under as many of the exact nodes as possible. Then drill another hole of the same width on the top of the pipe (opposite side of the other two holes) in the center. The final tuning and drilling of nodal holes is still to go, but that stage is still a while away yet – The frame needs to be calculated and at least partially built first. After a first coat, a light sand with fine paper prepares the surface for a second coat which goes on smoother and darkens the colour further. You can see from the close up photo here that the extra inch that it gave me in room was just enough! My cool idea to help deal with these issues was to use a “cluster” of very small diameter tubes instead of a single large diameter tube. The idea is that you really only need one locking wheel at each end of an instrument to hold it firmly in place. Here’s what I managed to accomplish in that week: Well that pretty much takes care of that week’s spare moments. Even so though, there was no way I was going to be able to neatly fit this tube with the bend going inwards… so for this bottom resonator I went towards the player instead, and angled just a little outwards – it comes just inside the frame so I’m happy. This will change from venue to venue as temperature changes. A little slot is cut with scissors in the felt for each of the bar posts at the points where the holes are drilled in the struts. An easy and fast step was to cut and tune the resonators for the notes f#3 to C5 – two and a half octaves. This is particularly important at the ends of the more diagonal horizontal bar support struts as they tend to be bounced direcly when playing, but unlike the inside struts in this particular design,they are not actually held firmly to the end sections with bolts – they just rest there. I won’t go over the whole process here as it’s a lengthy one, but it will of course be available in the building guide at www.makeamarimba.com once the whole instrument is finished and the guide written up. with this – an added lower horizontal strut with diagonals going the other way – ie from the UPPER part of the end sections to the middle area of this new horizontal lower strut. Here’s the super easy solution! How to Make a Xylophone with PVC Pipe. Cut to a bit shorter than final length – clean pipe – put on end cap and quickly tune with stoboscope – mark cap position with texta – apply glue – quickly slide cap on and fianlize tuning before glue dries. Also of course at the small end section of the frame, the little timber block needed to be cut allowing for this tube also. Actually – although I had already made a few of these using nothing but a drill and an angle grinder, I wanted to make the rest a faster and better way. This is a critical step because once this is done, the final tuning can be done which will make checking resonator effect possible at the instrument extremities, to achieve the best possible bar/tube coupling. A marimba is a percussive instrument usually constructed of metal tubing and a brass plate or wood tubing with wooden plates. Slide each pipe all the way into the other pipe. Today I got the bolts in to hold it all together and put all four diagonals in position. Put on a dust mask and protective eyewear. I’ve made it all from a single piece. The process takes quite a while, but the end result is really important – the diagonal struts can be cut, and the outer vertical legs on the big end section can be positioned and attached. These ones will work fine on carpet or concrete surfaces without vibrating themselves and the instrument to bits. All that remains to be done is to write up the building guide and finish the instructional videos so YOU can easily make one of these marimbas yourself. All in all, I’m hoping to have te building guide for this 5 octave marimba available now in less than a month from www.makeamarimba.com. It’s probably a good idea to put a third coat of estapol on any parts which will wear particularly. Theres about 150 of them ona 5 octave marimba though, so it’s worth using a good process if you have it available to you. In the meantime – here are a couple of blog posts to show some of the modifications I decided to use. Coat the inside of the caps with PVC glue, then slide the caps onto each of the pipes. This first picture shows the most fundamental modification, which is the lower support and diagonal structure of the frame. Do this a few times till you arrive at the best sound. The photo here above left shows a superior way of cutting the round ended slot that the strings sit in – using a milling machine with a 4mm mill bit. I also like to line the parts that ARE bolted together anyway – it doesn’t take long in the scheme of things when you consider the time spent overall. P524 Marimba - $1700 (for full five octave version using African Padauk bars) PV Vibraphone - $600 And if you wish to make a better quality instrument you can of course invest in a better quality wood, such as Rosewood.
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